Tech Support, Questions, How to Articles and More


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Frequently Asked Questions


Before you spend your hard earned bucks on custom suspension you need to feel comfortable with what your doing and how you are doing it! In the Tech section we have a ton of information to help you make an informed decision. Installation tips, FAQ (frequently asked questions), and a bunch of magazine articles. Spend some time looking around and don’t forget – the question you have, may be answered in one of the other sections. For example Alignment is a huge issue with lowering kits please spend some time there to really know how to choose the proper kit for you. Also refer to the Performance section to help you understand the benefits beyond just style. You can make your truck or suv look bitchin, and handle like a sports car with careful selection of a suspension kit, alignment, shocks, ground effects, and wheels and tires. And don’t forget ride quality! You have to drive it, your friends have to ride in it, why not make the ride as good as possible. See how different parts impact ride in the Ride Quality section of the web site. If your interested in a restoration by all means consult the Restoration section. This is now the most popular trend in the truck lowering world. There are a lot of very cool old/becoming new designs rolling out of garages and shops and there is no reason that the next one can’t be yours!

So carry on with your project, and here are some of the questions most frequently asked:



Q: I’ve spent the money, did the work, and now my truck is low on the drivers side?


A: Your truck was low on the drivers side before you started. This is why it is so important to get those before measurements recommended on the installation helper. When you measure before you begin you will notice that at stock ride height your truck is probably not level. It is very uncommon to have a level truck or car, even brand new! Cars and trucks are not symmetrical. They have a gas tank on one side and not the other, an air conditioner condenser on one side and not the other etc. The problem is, at stock ride height you just don’t notice it. But the second you lower your truck it sticks out like a sore thumb. Most trucks come in at 1/4 to 1/2” out of level, sometimes more, and as soon as you fill your tank that figure changes. If you want to try to be more level at all times it is possible to shim the low side up using a spring shim of some sort. Either a commercially made shim or just some heater hose sliced lengthwise and slid over one end of the spring will work great. Be aware that a 1/4″ shim will get you from 1/2″ to 3/4″ of ride height at the wheel.



Q: Why does the suspension squeak like a stuck pig when I drive?


A: Urethane bushings if over tightened and not lubricated can squeak to high heaven. So will rubber if mistreated. The first step is to properly lubricate with a weatherproof, high quality grease. “Never Seeze” or a teflon impregnated grease works great. Then, DON’T OVERTIGHTEN! Of coarse you need to tighten until the “play” or movement is gone and is safely tight. But if you make the urethane bulge, you have over tightened. DJM has developed the “Twin Tube Sleeve” technology designed to eliminate this “squeak problem”. Twin Tube technology is a sleeve inside a sleeve design with the inner sleeve being slightly longer so when you tighten your pivot point the compression load is applied to the sleeve and not to the urethane bushings. There is a picture of the twin tubes on the control arm page so you can see how well this works.



Q: Can I use a drop spindle and a control arm at the same time?


A: No



Q: How long/hard is my kit to install?


A: This depends entirely on your experience and equipment available to you. You should have good heavy duty jack stands, hydraulic floor jacks and some wrenching experience as a minimum to work on suspension. A lift is a really big plus, and seriously, if your not comfortable with this type of work, use a professional installer.



Q: Before I lowered my truck it drove down the road smooth as silk. Now, after I installed the lowering kit I get vibrations, why?


A: There can be several reasons why you sometimes experience vibrations. At the top of the list, today, is really big wheels. The popularity of 22,23,24” and larger wheels have caused installers nightmares when it comes to balancing them. And this has increased vibration problems with the same proportions. These are huge, heavy wheels which are very hard to balance. Bad balance, vibrations at a large variety of speeds. New wheels and new suspension installation very often occur at the same time and if you notice a problem it becomes harder to diagnose.
Now there are very definite vibration problems which are caused by lowering kits. There are two typical situations, 1. (most often) Usually a flip kit installed on a truck with a two piece drive shaft and you feel a low speed (5 – 15mph) flutter or soft vibration from a standing start. This is almost always cured by moving the carrier bearing (the bearing at the intersection of the short (front) drive shaft and the long (rear) up towards the bed of the truck. Most often there is a kit for this adjustment and with DJM kits it most often is included in the flip kit. 2. There is once in a while a higher speed vibration which is solved by adjusting the pinion angle with a shim. Again DJM includes pinion shims in the kits where this is an issue. If you have a special case there are pinion shims available from DJM separately. 

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